#Using a green stump for anvil stand how to#
#Using a green stump for anvil stand plus#

Just remember, the ending height with the anvil resting on the stump needs to equal your knuckle to ground measurement. Look at the base of the tree, the large the stump, the more wood. A bow saw or any of the varieties of cross-cut can do the job just fine. Accounting for the 6.25' height of my piece of railroad track and the foot or so going in the ground, I had to cut my piece of hickory down some. This prevents you from putting undue strain on your body while hammering. If it is a 'green' log then a coat of shellac, Linseed oil, or some other product will make it dry more evenly, and prevent splitting by slowing down the drying process. (I might make exception for 300 + but I have yet to try one) Looks good. The general rule for anvil height is to have the face of your anvil meet the knuckles of your clenched fist when it's held at your side. A loose anvil, even contained, is annoying and takes more effort to use. For our purposes, we won't be sinking it that far. Hello everyone, welcome to my channel.In this video I show you how I make the anvil stand,with 10 x 10 pine wood dowels. Traditionally, the blacksmith would set the stump between four and five feet into the ground after doing some careful measurement to make sure the height matched his own. If hickory is not available, other hardwoods will do: oak, maple, poplar, walnut, etc. It takes the blows sent from the hammer through the anvil well. Hickory is a good choice because of its weight and density. Because I got my stump the day after it was cut, it hasn't checked at all yet (the term for when wood cracks due to drying I learned) Today I stripped the bark with a rubber mallet and a chisel. However, this was found wood and it will do the job just fine.īlacksmiths throughout history have used green (just downed or recently downed) hardwood stumps for anvil mounts. Remove the bark and char the surface with a gas torch to prevent future wood worm infestation.

Ideally, you want the diameter to match or be greater than the longest part of the anvil base. I chose a piece of wood that turned out to be a bit less in diameter than my anvil. With my uncles' help I put it in the back of the truck. The log is english oak as has weathered for a while before I got it. So, I eyeballed and cut a 5'6'' piece from one of them with my chain saw (which is not necessary, but extremely useful for this step). In this video I prepare an oak log to become the base for my anvil. They happened to have some downed shagbark hickories back in the back. Would rather just have inside anvil and outside anvil.I'm fortunate to have a couple of uncles who live on a nice piece of wooded land. I use mostly silver and the forging is mostly ring and bangle sized objects. I haven't done that myself as I just don't move my anvil very often. I am considering the addition of an anvil and anvil stump for use in my shop. My set up was outside for a good 3 years now has been moved inside the past 2-2 1/2 years. Just the regular old pine boards that you find at any local box store. I'm sure that wouldn't be to difficult to engineer. My anvil stand is made from 4 pieces of 4x4, 2 pieces of 2x8, ringed top and bottom with 2x4. A way out of this might be some hard points welded to your anvil stand that accept casters that can lower down with some type of screw mounting. If I were to build any sort of integral casters that, for example, lower down with a screw they would rattle every time the anvil took a blow. Now I move it to wherever I want to move it and reverse the steps above to dismount it.

#Using a green stump for anvil stand plus#

I put some steel blocks I welded up under the plus shape.

#Using a green stump for anvil stand how to#

I use the palette jack to raise the whole anvil up. In this video I explain how to restore a 100-year-old Anvil and also how I made a base for it. You could also put a couple pieces of angle iron on the base of any stand with a hole or two so you can fasten it via a drop in anchor to the concrete. I put a + shape set of wood with some metal rails under the anvil. You want to be able to get close to the anvil for forging on the offside. Caulking your anvil to the stump from there keeps it in place and quiets it really well. I did that with a chainsaw and got mine nice and flat. You could even take my design and improve it some. Use a level to screw 4 boards to the stump all on the same level then use that as a guide for your saw. It's a little shaky until you get it up onto the jack but once it's on the jack it very solid for moving. I needed to move my Gladiator around (it weighs 715#'s with the stand).